Bulova 8AN Part Question

I have an 8AN movement....and the clutch wheel lever flew away on me and is lost. I have made some inquiries and I've been told it is a FHF (Font) 1146. However, I was also old Jules Borel lists a FHF 1146 as interchangeable with the Bulova 10AN/10AE/10AX. I doubt the 8AN clutch lever is the same as the 10AN. Does anyone have a 8AN parts movement that would be willing to sell me a cluth lever? Its the only thing standing between me and a running watch! Thank you kindly fellow members. Rob

Posted October 28, 2013 - 2:31pm

Panel Member

Hey Rob,

What year is the 8AN from? I've checked some of my catalogues and don't even find it listed as a Bulova movement. I know I don't have a 8AN but if we can narrow it down, myself, JP and others should be able to help you out. Rev Rob? any thoughts here.


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Reverend Rob
Posted October 28, 2013 - 3:37pm

Panel Member

The 8AN is indeed the FHF 1146, and interchangeability is not always guaranteed. Bulova modded various components, mostly the balance cock, but I have come across modded mainplates, so that the original ebauche will not even fit a Bulova watch. 

Sometimes the keyless works remained the same between 8 and 10 ligne movts, sometimes not. I'm just going through my parts now, but so far nada. 

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Reverend Rob
Posted October 28, 2013 - 3:48pm

Panel Member

If I may, I'd like to add a procedural note:

Parts flying was a source of comedy and consternation in the classroom for the neophyte watchmakers, but we were soon told how to maintain control of parts at all times. In the case of removing or installing a clutch lever, or yoke, you must maintain a grip on both parts or they will disappear. 

Whittle the end of a pegwood to a chisel shape on one end, and a point on the other. Orangewood works best. When removing the yoke, you hold down the yoke and its spring with the chisel end, and pull up the spring gently with the tweezers til it clears the cavity and releases its energy. Slowly lift the pegwood, and the parts will be inert. Remove the spring, then the yoke.

To install, place the yoke in position, across the lubed section of the sliding pinion, and place the spring in position, with the shorter leg against the side of the cavity. Grab the longer end with the tweezers, and compress the spring, fitting the end in position while maintaing control over the yoke and the other end at all times. Make sure the spring and the yoke are lying flat, and are tucked right in. You want to install the setting lever spring (Sautoir) or plate over this assembly asap. 

You want to always be in control of any part of the watch that stores energy, from the letting down of the power of the mainspring to any tiny spring, particularly calendar works springs. With a little practise, you will never lose a spring again. I use Brass tweezers almost exclusively for most of this work, they do not scratch the plates and have a bit more grab than hardened steel tweezers. They require more maintenance, however. We were (and still are) always shaping and filing our screwdrivers and tweezers when they get marred or distorted. 

Hope this helps.

Posted October 28, 2013 - 4:54pm

Panel Member

Thx Rob,

You learned that in the classroom, I learned it the hard way, trial and error. I seldom ever have a flyer any more but still, even a minor distraction can send something flying. For me, it's usually the dog beneath my feet. I should know better but I still let him have the run of the house during the day when I think I can keep an eye on him. LOL

Posted October 28, 2013 - 9:00pm

Club 5000Panel Member

Oh the hours I have spent on my hands and knees looking for things that go 'bonk'. A small magnet and a gliding motion back and forth across the entire floor space usually ends in a good result. 

Magnets I hear you all say!!!

Posted October 29, 2013 - 3:53am

Good stuff guys....this is the kind of exchange I have always wanted to see more of on the site....the sharing of ideas and shared experiences! Excellent!

The 8AN is from 1929....it's posted on the site alone with a few others, usually found in the "Dictator" model. I was trying to work fast away from my bench when it happened....it's always better to be seated in a clean work space....lesson learned the hard way! I never lose parts otherwise!

If the 8AN is a Font 1146, then Borel says its also a 10AN....so go figure! I can procure a Font 1146....but if it's the same as a 10AN....what's the point - I have plenty of those parts. I guessvI could try one first? Rob

PS - I have laminate flooring with "grooves"and sometimes I can't find something that dropped ( or stuck to my arm and fell on the floor!) and is hiding somewhere. In the worst case, I have a special attachment for my Kirby that will pick it up and catch it in a special disc filter....then I find it in with fine dirt, some dust, dog hair (Dobermans shed fine black hair like hell), sand (San Diego....what can I say!) and dead skin!  Doesn't work well for a watch hand though....they get pretty mangled in the process!

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Reverend Rob
Posted October 29, 2013 - 9:43am

Panel Member

The 'Magna-Finder' we had at school was a broom handle screwed into a flat wooden head, with fridge magnet strips front and back, and we found parts that had probably been missing for years. Sometimes we even found what we had been looking for. One of the students had a click spring stuck to his face, and after looking for it in vain, we were having lunch when someone noticed it. 

Posted October 29, 2013 - 11:10am

So your saying he had some spring to his bite??

I have a piece of panty hose attached to the out put of my shop vac and it pretty much catches all parts without messing them up. It does suck up the black cat hair from my sneakey cat.

Be sure to demag the parts if you find them with a magnet or you could be in for a surprise.