hello i am working on an 11afac automatic..i want to make sure i oil everything correctly...i found an oil chart for an eta automatic,which might be close but doesn't give alot of detail..all my watch repair manuals ie bulova school, military ordinance, chicago and others don't quite have info on oiling an automatic, iw as wondering if anyone came across something that shows how to oil an auto..thank you for any help..
If you look on eta.ch, you will find SwissLab, and it will walk you through oiling during reassembly of various calibres, the only one even remotely similar is the 2892, they have pared down the calibres available on SwissLab. But take a look at that, it shows critical oiling points.
I don't have an 11AFAC for reference, and it doesn't show up as being a modded ebauche, so I can't cross reference it to its equivalent, however, I can make some general recommendations. If you have the three main oil types, D5, 9010 and 9415 (for pallet stones) , you are almost there. For the slipping bridle of the automatic mainspring, you need Molybdenum sulfide, or 8201, as it's called, between the bridle and inside of the barrel. This is critical. Without it, your bridle will wear away the inside of the barrel. You could get away with a mainspring grease like 8200, which you would also use on the mainspring itself. You can also get by by using D5 or 8300 on the keyless works, but nowadays some companies are going to Molykote, especially in chronographs. The main trick is the reversing wheels, which should be dipped in a lubricating solution, and the best one is Lubeta, but it isn't widely available. You can make a solution yourself in a pinch by mixing some 9010 oil with a small quantity of Methyl alcohol. Dip a large oiler in the oil and swish it around in about 10cc's of alcohol. Swish your cleaned reversers in this and let them dry on parchment paper with the aid of your small blower. When they are dry, they will have a film of oil on them. their pivots should be oiled with 9020 or D5, and reassembled back into the automatic winding device.
The pivot of the driving gear, as it protrudes from the bottom of the device as you assemble it onto the top bridges of the movt, will engage the ratchet wheel or sometimes the crown wheel, this pivot must be lubricated as you lower the assembly down to attach it. Carefully check and see that the gears are meshing befor you tighten it down. With the oscillating weight installed, swing it around using a pegwood, and see that the winding is being transmitted to the ratchet wheel and that the watch will wind itself. If not, something is wrong, and possibly a wheel in the auto device is upside down, etc.
So look at the SwissLab diagrams, and any other references you may have, automatics are all very similar. Cousins UK has scads of technical sheets, and Bulova used a lot of ETA and AS autos, as well as Felsa. Don't overoil and don't underoil. Keep everything scrupulously clean with a blower and also cover the movement with a dome or other cover when you have to leave the bench. Even tiny fabric particles can mess things up, so you want this surgically clean. Inspect everything as you finish, rodico any specks you see, and reassemble the dial and hands and wind it up and let it run for 24 hours to see what's happening. This is where a timing machine is invaluable, and adjusting and regulating is a whole other multi-paragraph kettle of fish.
Hope this helps.
Here is a link to a Sellita technical doc archive, on cousins, it shows an exploded oiling view of all parts. The one to look at is the SW200. (eta 2824) It's not exactly like your movt, but shows the main components of a typical winding system. Yours might have slightly different parts or layout, and may even have a small click inside the winding device, can't say for sure. If it does, oil the click pivots if it is that type, but do not oil the beak of the click where it contacts the teeth of the wheel. I wish I could be more specific, but without the movt in front of me, I'm guessing as to it's internal design. If you are unfamiliar with a movt, it is a good practice to take digital pictures as you disassemble, so you can refer to them as you re-assemble. You can put your loupe in front of the camera lens, and take close ups. The 11AFAC is reminiscent of an AS auto, like the 1320, but I can't find a good diagram of it, although it is also listed on cousins, but mainly just a parts list with pictures.
thank you rob, the oils i do have are 8000 8200 and the pallet fork oil which i forget the number right now..i will check out the charts you reconmend. i figured about most autos working the same and eta chart i was looking at was ok but i will check cousinsuk, which i had before for other things..thanks again for responding..the one thing i don't like about rodico is some times it sticks to go then you have to rub it off,i also took pictures of every step and every part removal..so that helped alot..there are some screws that i am not use to seeing, not so much the extra gears and rotor.but remember where the screws go is kinda the hard part...one more thing, should i install the winding &setting parts befor i finish reassembling the rotor parts..i think it would be easier to do that than wait to the rotor is moving around when it is laying down on the work pad...
Winding and setting parts on the dial side should be in place before the pallet fork and balance. The Auto winding mechanism and the rotor are the last things to go on, because you need to regulate the watch with them off. On some movts, you can't access the stud carrier (if it is a movable one) or the regulating pin arm, and makes it very difficult to see the hairspring or adjust it with the Auto bridge on. The pallet fork is installed after the winding and setting parts so a few turns of power can be applied so that when oiling the pallet stones with 9415, you can index through the teeth, (by gently moving the pallet fork back and forth) 5 at a time, to make sure they all get some oil from the exit stone. There is an oil profile you should see on the entry pallet, which is a clinging of the oil to the stone, sloping to contact the oiled escape tooth, and this tells you you are sufficiently lubricated. There is a diagram somewhere of this, I'll see if I can find it.
The rotor makes it difficult for the movt to sit properly in the movt holder, also, so it goes on last for this reason also. Once the dial and hands are on, it is a good idea to check the rate again, because the hands may bind, or there may be increased friction with the pipe of the sweep second if there is one, etc. Once the watch is assembled, you can stick it on a regulator to make sure it is winding properly through motion and still keeping time, or simply wear it for a couple days to see what's happening. Oftentimes the wrist test is quite different from the other tests.
Rodico shouldn't stick, if it does, it may be really dirty, or contaminated with oil. All parts of the movt should be clean and rinsed and scrupulously dry, Rodico dissolves and sticks to cleaning solutions or residues. There are three types: Blue, Green, and Grey. Blue is discontinued, and the supposedly improved one is grey, and I use it for jewels and dials and hands. The green will work in all areas as well. I still have some Blue, but it is toxic.
Hope this helps!