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Bulova 1947 Tuxedo

3/10 votes
Model ID rating explained.

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Additional Information


This is a 14K solid white gold case, crystal fits flush to the case everywhere.  Not sure if crystal is plastic or glass, the watchmaker thinks maybe plastic.  The band is an aftermarket Spiedel vintage band with round ends - it has to go.  Dial looks original and is charcoal grey with a slightly different shade frame around the outer edge where the minute markers are painted.  Light spotting on dial.  White gold hour markers at 1,2,4,5,7,8,10 and 11.  Hands are all white gold.  White gold-color signed crown, I assume it's original.  Watch came from e-bay.  Movement not running due to broken hairspring, parts movement en-route to effect repair.

What model is it?  I know it's from the "His Excellency" line, but being a 1947 in solid gold, it should have a model name.  I'm thinking possibly a "Tuxedo" but missing the gold band (?)

Any help appreciated.

Not For Sale
Claven2 1947 Bulova Tuxedo 04 19 2014
1947 Bulova watch
1947 Bulova watch
Panel Member
Posted April 16, 2014 - 8:32pm

I'd say Tuxedo as well but there has been much discussion about this model without the band. Don't swap out the movement, just change the MS. I can send you one, just to keep the originality intack. Send me a message with your mailing addy and it's as good as in the mail.

Posted April 16, 2014 - 8:46pm

It's not the MS that's broken, it's the Hairspring.  I have no intention ove movement swapping, but I don't know where else to source a HS/BW assembly apart from a donor movement (?).  Sad really, these 7AKs are actually really nice movements and we have to scrap one every time we see a broken hairspring.  It makes no sense to me that they are not reproduced by anyone.

Panel Member
Posted April 16, 2014 - 10:21pm

Ooops, my bad mis read that bit. I've managed to find complete balance assemblies for the 10BM, 10BH 10AK's and the 8AC, 8AE cal's but nothing for the 7AK's so I save everything if I have to scrap one out due to a bad staff.  It's a major work to due a new staff, rollor, jewel, and hairspring so I can relate to what your saying.

Reverend Rob's picture
Reverend Rob
Panel Member
Posted April 16, 2014 - 9:21pm

Hairsprings are still being made and are readily available. However, it would have to be vibrated and custom fit to the balance. There are also Bulova hairsprings for this calibre still kicking around. I checked, and I don't have one, but maybe somebody else does. 

I don't run into very many broken springs, usually they are bent or sometimes totally scrambled. A bent spring can be repaired, but it takes a lot of skill and practice. As long as the spring hasn't been bent too much, it is usually salvagable. The ideal solution is to replace it, but parts are getting scarce. A NOS spring is always better than a repaired one, if in good condition they retain all their modulus of elasticity. 

Looks like a Tuxedo to me. 

Posted April 16, 2014 - 9:55pm

Thanks for the info Bob.  It's definitely broken, the watchmaker pointed it out to me and you can see the broken end under magnification.  If I could find a new assembly, I would use that instead of cannibalizing the donor movement, which would be nice to retain for future parts needs, but I've not had luck sourcing one.  Harvesting the spare movement is going to probably be cheaper than getting a new hairspring vibrated and fitted.  

If anyone has a spare NOS 7AK  balance wheel and spring assembly they want to sell, I'm a willing recipient ;) 

Geoff Baker
Club 5000Panel Member
Posted April 19, 2014 - 6:07am

Agree - Tuxedo, dandy watch!